Rolfe Bars

Ages ago, years probably, there was an article in Climb about making high energy food by some bloke that does lots or Arctic sled dog stuff. All i could remember was that there was a recipe for energy bars, and that the guy as well as being a knarly explorer type was also sponsored (or something) by a food dehydrator company.

Anyway this article played on my mind a bit - I even looked through all my back issues of climb - but I couldn't locate the article. Then the other day I saw him, that bloke, in an advert for food dehydrators.

He's called Gary Rolfe, he lives in Greenland and he's a dog musher, and he's got a dead comprehensive website, with all the articles he's written on, including Do It Yourself The Hard Way - the article i read 2 years ago, and couldn't find again.

Hurrah for the power of the internet. Who knows i might even get round to baking at some point....

March 2009

A bit of an odd month as I had 2 weeks holiday in the middle of it, so did lots - but everything was a bit disrupted and all over the place.

The Good

Managed to come 1st in category in the final comp of the Alien bouldering series - despite not actually trying. If I had known I would of tried a bit harder...

Also came 1st in category for the Alien winter bouldering league - so there you go i'm the number 1 'easy female' (chortle) - and 9th out of all the women, although that's mostly by dint of actually turning up for 3 events.

I managed to get my weight down to 73kg (from 75kg) - which is about half way to the target of 70kg.

Went on holiday to Skye - and did 2 nice bike rides - one wee one out along the Elgol road - which had been newly resurfaced and was like a riding on a crucible baize, and one longer ride round Trotternish and the Quiraing - all very lovely

I finally (just as winter was ending) managed to do a winter skills course - 5 days of very unwintery conditions up at Glenmore Lodge. We did get enough snow and ice to get the crampon and axe practice in - but i was wearing sunblock and shades for 4 of the 5 days...

The Bad

Running wise - missed a few session while on holiday - mostly to lazy/unorganised to go out, despite having taken my trainers away with me. (Slapped wrists!)

Went outdoor climbing and was having a low bravery day so didn't lead anything (wuss)

The Lessons and Goals for April

Long cycle rides are great for losing weight.

The Edinburgh 10k is at the start of May so really need to do all my planned running session. Thats 3+ times a week including running club and a longer run.

Keep taking packed lunched to work - cheaper and healthier - means i'm more in control of what i'm eating (target 72kg by end of april).

Go outdoor climbing at least once in april (planned trip to northumberland) - and lead something!

Climb indoors twice a week, and attempt to lead some 6a+'s and top-rope some 6b/6b+'s

Cruach Ardrain

that's gaelic for hill of the many false summits*

It's a bit ago now since this day-out- but I just got sent some photos, so my enthusiasm has been rekindled.

The day started out late (anyone else sensing a patten here). As we left Edinburgh the sun was out and the mood was jovial - by the time we reached Crainlarich the sky had darkened, and the giggling had lulled to a nervous silence.

The uneasiness wasn't helped by the sight of the days first obstacle; Cows.

So cows evaded it was onwards and upwards - and the laughter soon returned. I forget how good a day on the hill with friends can be. It really was ace - I haven't had so much fun for an age (thanks everyone).

We never made the top; late start and snow - but we did make lunch and make it back down.

Hurrah for snow, friends and laughter!

*no - not really

X and NY

The first holiday since march 2009, and it was long overdue! So we loaded the car up and loaded it down with every conceivable bit of gear you could want for 2 weeks of winter fun.

Pedaling

First stop the Borders, to visit the in-laws (or outlaws, as I suppose they more properly are). Activity cycling. One short run and one longer run that I wanted to be shorter. The long run was hampered by being cold and full of cold, but the first half of it was pretty good.

Next stop the Solway Coast - for a few more bike rides - these ones a whole lot more flat (like REALLY flat) - but i'm quite proud of myself becasue a) i went out by myself for the first and second time b) i went out on christmas day and c) I drank out of my bottle on the move - a seemingly small achievement, but a daunting task and a break through that means I don't have to keep stopping all the time, well to drink at least.

Walking

You can't really go to the lakes without heading up a few fells, especially with near perfect weather abounding.

We spent a day on walking up to Eel Crag via the Causey Pike ridge. It was busy, but a nice route.

New Years day we decided to walk up Great Gable, mostly because it's pretty famous and I had never been up it. There are plenty of ways up but we opted for going via Sour Milk Gill, the Gillercombe valley and Green Gable, as it's a bit more secluded and the Gillercombe valley is pretty special. The weather was near perfect, Borrowdale was heavily dusted in frost, sour milk gill was frozen, and the sky was blue. Great views as well, particulalry of Ennerdale and Pillar - Now I really want to go up Pillar.

The view over Ennerdale and Pillar

Lying in a hollow at the summit, eating lunch, wearing duvet and shades, felt very alpine. A great start to the new year.

Durness

We went to Durness for a Birthday Party long weekend (thank you mark and sarah).

These are the things that were good.

• Camping on the cliff tops
• Watching poi girls
• Drinking Pimms in the sun
• Smoo caves and abseiling boys
• Breakfast on the beach
• Dead seal (or was it a Dolphin?)
• Climbing a lovely new(maybe) route on the beach
• Rainbows and flowers
• Strome Ferry (No ferry)

www.flickr.com

Karma - A story for Cath

A long long time ago in a city not too far far away and it's New Years Eve, or Hogmanay as they call it locally. Cath has received a number of small, and very definitely 'not for climbing', karabiners for Christmas and is determined to use them. Alcohol is consumed, and as is traditional at this time of year there is a rush to the top of a nearby hill to watch the fireworks herald a new cylce. Even though the fireworks fail to go off, due to bad weather, a warehouse theft or some other rumour which in that age of innocence no one even thinks of blaming on terrorism, the merriment and frivolity continue well after the bells.

Maybe the temptation was just to much but our hero feels the need to put her new christmas present to work - and what are krabs for but clipping things to other things; ideal then for clipping your keys to a belt loop on your jeans. The merriment continues.

The temptation really was to much for one poor urchin, who we will call Sue "I'll just take these while no one is paying attention, and later when they are discovered missing it will all be very funny to hand them back..." Her action goes unnoticed and the merriment continues.

As evening and the early hours recede further into the past, paths diverge, parties start, get going and wind down, and the urchin goes to dig out a mobile phone to call a ride home - instead of her her phone, she pulls out a set of keys that don't belong to her. *!!* This can mean only one thing - somewhere on the other side of town our hero is stranded with no keys, and no means of returning to the soft warm bed her exhausted body craves. Much as she would like to she can't just draw her curtains against the encroaching new year and new day, and and retreat into the night for just a little bit longer... God dammit!

Scroll forward in time and Sue finds herself in the region known as the Lake District with time to spare and a good weather forecast. She isn't well prepared for a day on the hill, but no matter she knows the area well enough to make do without a map, and its warm enough not to need to carry too much stuff. She stuffs her mobile, a pasty, and a sun hat in a coat pocket, and being mindful zips her car key in to a different pocket, ties her coat around her waist and sets off for the skyline. A few hours later and Sue is feeling a little bit smug, she's made good time on her route, the weather has remained good, and it won't be long till she's back down at the car and making the journey home. But as she reaches the car her face falls - the pocket she ever so carefully zipped her car key in is open...

3rd Time Lucky

So after 3 attempts I have finally made it to the summit of Bidean nam Bian in Glen Coe.

The first time there was thigh deep slush and a snow line that was rising nearly as fast as we were - it was just grim, so we backed off.

The second time was better - we got to the top of Stob Coire nam Beith, before the horizontal hail made us want to not be on the ridge.

Cath looking out over the Lost Valley

This time the weather was lovely, and we ambled to the top enjoying a lovely spring day. The weather was warm but there was still patches of snow (and some step kicking). Unlike the other attempts, this time we went up via the 'Lost Secret Hidden Valley' (or whatever it's called) and veered right at the end of the valley to hit the col between Bidean and Stob Coire nan Lochan, we also tacked on Stob coire nan Beith while we were up and they went back over Stob Corie nan Lochan, and down Corie nan Lochan.

nice day out!

Scottish Mountain Holiday, March 2008

Was it a brave decision to holiday in Scotland? In March? potentially...

The options started out as 1) Spain; a bit of bolt clipping and cheese munching on the Costa Brava. 2) Somewhere more exotic for a bit of bolt clipping - Turkey maybe? 3) Scotland, for a spot of winter walking. In the end it was the no fly option that won - goodbye sun, hello weather!

Day 1: The journey North

So, a promising start then?

Not the most auspicious of starts to a holiday. We were a day late starting, as Mike had landed tickets to go see England-Scotland at Murryfeild. At least Scotland won! The delay didn't seem to matter too much though, we certainly wern't missing the good weather. Strong winds and storms were forcast moving in from the West, so we decided to go East to the Cairngorms.

Accommodation: SYHA Cairngorm Lodge

Day 2: Coire an t'Sneachda in the Wind

It was never going to be a day for doing much, but we wanted to venture out anyway. Winds were going to be strong with gusts over 100mph predicted, and the clag was down. We decided to venture in to Coire an t'Sneachda, practice some skills, and see how it went. At least it wouldn't be too far home again. So we walked in - nearly got blown over quite alot - reached the end of the Corrie and turned round to go home. We had hoped to practice some ice axe arrests, but the snow was to thin (lots of rocks), and too fluffy. Instead I decided to practice walking on a bearing which was going well, until I went through the snow into the burn and my boot filled up with water. It was actually slooshing about - nice. Two and a half hours later we were back in the car drinking hot chocolate.

The day taught me 2 things - think about the streams, and that my trousers weren't waterproof. Luckily we were close to Avimore and had the afternoon free to shop for a new pair. You know how they say couples dress alike, well it's slowly beginning to be true - but honestly the pair the same as Mikes were the pair that fitted best!

Damp - but still enjoying it

Accommodation: SYHA Cairngorm Lodge

Day 3: Creag Meagaidh

We had thought up lots of ambitious plans in the Cairngorms for the day - but they were all a bit to ambitious, and the alternatives wern't very exciting, or we had already done them. So why stick in the Cairngorms then - once that constaint was out of the window a option emergerd...

Creag Meagaidh was in glorious blue sunshine, and the walk in was picture perfect. Its a long way up Coire Adair, but on days like that you don't really mind. The buttresses were laden, and it was clear why the avalanche forcast was considerable. We set off up the window - but then I dropped a crampon and my crampon bag (which went for miles!) - so we turned back to retrieve them - then the weather turned, which made the decision less bad.

Accomodation: Achintee Farm Hostel, Glen Nevis

Day 4: The Ice Factor

Rain - so a day indoors and a switch from legs to arms. A few hours at the Ice factor in Kinlochleven, then a drive north to Torridon

Day 5: Beinn Bhan.

Beinn Bhan is one of those corbetts that makes you wonder why people bother with munros - it really makes you stop and wonder. There are some harder ways up, which we'll leave till summer, and a easy way up - well easy in the way walking uphill never really is. We followed the shoulder up, but headed for the skyline as soon a possible to get views onto the other side. I leave the pictures to do the talking, but mostly just wow!

Day 6: Applecross, and on Exercise on Sgurr a'Chaorachain

A drive round Applecross in the morning, looking at Skye and Rassay out to the West and the very cute wee villages that dot the coast. We went down as far as Toscaig, where we parked on the peir and made soup on our new stove.

We followed the road back over the Belach na Ba (pass of the cattle), Britain's highest road at 2053ft, stopping at the top to make a strike on Sgurr a'Chaorachain. Its the cheats way as there is only about 150m left to climb from the top of the pass - but I prefer to think of it more as tactical.

The excursion took on a military feel as we radioed in air support to bomb the communications tower, then made for the high ground. Ice axes and deep snow make for great guns and dramatic deaths, and the tit for tat slayings caused us both to die many times.

Day 7: A perfect day on Beinn Eighe

Last day and time for a biggie!

Beinn Eighe is part of the steep and more than a bit intimidating Torridon triptych. These mountains rise pretty steeply and feel serious. I haven't done a load of Winter walking so this could be a challenging day for me. The day starts gently as you walk between Beinn Eighe and it's neighbour, the mighty Liathach, and round to the rear of the mountain. The views out over the wilds and the prehistoric snow frosted hills of Baosbheinn and Beinn an Eoin were pretty damm good for the soul. THey are also good for the imagination - you really can imagine dinosaurs here. From here you rise into Coire Mhic Fearchair, home to more towering buttresses - Triple buttress being perhaps the most famous. Cameron McNeish rates this as one of the best Corries in Scotland and he's on the money.

After a slog across the corrie, through deep snow and boulders - always a fun combination - ending up thigh deep in holes, we headed up the gully onto the ridge. I'm a little bit proud of myself as I haven't ever walked up a snow gully before. It was pretty easy - but fair hard work, we both had a 'glow' at the top. The path to the top of Ruadh-stac Mor was unbroken, but not too hard going. It was then back down to the top of the gully and round to next summit. A tiny bit of scrambling involved, but the fun rather than OMG i'm going to die kind.

On the Ridge

We finished by dropping of the ridge back to the road - cutting the time by bum sliding down about 200m, The day still took 10 hours though, but what a day! One of the best days on the hill ever!

We had soup back at the car (new stove = new toy), then made for a chippy - they were all shut by the time we found one -so it was cold spring rolls from the village shop in ??, and a start to the drive home. By the time we stoped at the Ratagan Hostel the only thing we could do was sleep.

Accomodation : SYHA Ratagan

Day 8: Home.

Not quite direct - Still time for Mike to gear shop in Fort William and for us both to Wonder at the busyness that was Glen Coe; not a parking space to be had and streams of people on the Buchille. The day before we had had Beinn Eighe to ourselves.

One Moment

one moment

Winter storms gather
darkness descends over glen
in stillness it waits

and another

Sunshine falls on rock
climbing tentativly up
the years first climb goes

Scafell Revisited

Scafell Pike was the first proper fellwalk I did as an adult. It was something of an epic - but it might just have lit a spark.

Back then I was working in the Sticklebarn Tavern as live-in barstaff. A plan was hatched that on one of our days off a gang of us would walk up Scafell Pike. I'm not sure why we choose this particular mountain, but it was probably for the same reason everyone else does - it's the hightest in England. I'm not sure why we choose to walk from Langdale, the longest of the 3 main routes - but probably because that's where we lived and we didn't have a car. So the day dawned for our adventure and we started it off late and with a full english breakfast, remembering to pack plenty of flapjack (the sticklebarn does good flapjack). As a group of 5 unfit, hard smoking, hard drinking barstaff we made slow progress. We stopped at the bottom of Rosset Ghyll to brew up; when I look back now it amazes me that one of our group was carrying a stove. Going up Rosset Ghyll we stopped a lot more - about every 10 paces. At one of these frequent stops a couple passed us - we were a little awed by them - to us they seemed super human as they made the ascent without stopping for breath. They of course recognised us (everyone knows you when you serve beer in a small valley) and stopped to say hello. They weren't even panting!

Our route took us to angle tarn, where we stopped for another brew, then over Broad crag and up to Scafell Pike. Fag breaks were many, and it shouldn't have been a surpise that we arrived at the summit late in the day. It wasn't very exciting - the cloud was down and the view was cloud. After sandwiches, a summit tradition that endures, we decided to head home. But then someone (ok it was me) decided that maybe we could walk a shorter route home - ie down to Borrowdale and get someone to drive round an pick us up from there. There wasn't much argument from my companions. As they plan was mulled over, someone remembered a pub in Borrowdale with a fine selection of malt and the plan was sealed. And so we set off. I'm not sure how long it took us to realise we wern't were we were supposed to be - but it was a while, and by this point we a good way down into Wasdale, which may be near Borrowdale, but isn't anywhere close to it. Our 'team leader', as he was not amused to be called, had made the mistake of following some people we assumed were going our way. Non of the rest of us knew any better - but not following people is a valuable lesson to learn.

We were lost, relying on the navigational skills of someone who clearly wasn't much good, and it was getting dark. It was about this point I started to enjoy the day. We put ourselves right - made the trek over the hill - spotted Styhead tarn, and made the trudge down to Seathwaite. We were pretty tired by that point, being unfit, and it being a long way. It's even further to the first pub. We worked out afterwards that it had taken us 15 hours. I did enjoy it though!

Great Gable from Sprinkling Tarn, on a gorgeous February day

The revisit went a little better. The weather was unseasonably glorious. This time the approach was from Borrowdale and I was older wiser and fitter; smoking is a thing of the past and the drinking is greatly reduced. I'm pleased to say that navigation wasn't a problem. We opted for a slightly longer, but quieter and less shaded route, from styhead tarn, round the back of Great End. We decended off NW then droped down to east to join the corridor route . We didn't hurry - on a day like that there isn't much incentive to - and it still took us half the time of the first visit. What struck me about the day was that it seemed so easy, compared to the hills and conditions we have been doing. The angle seemed tame - nothing steep for any long periods. I didn't even get my poles out on the way up (I might be fitter, but I now have dodgy knees). One of the joys of 1:25 000 maps is that you seem to get everywhere very fast - and it did seem that way. A totally enjoyable day.

I appear to have become like that 'super human' couple - able to walk up hills without stopping...

Pyrenean Traverse

We met Cath and her mum at Camping la Mola in Espot in the evening of the 24th July. Cath was pretty much the reason behind the trip - as part of her year in Spain she was spending a month walking in the Pyrenees, being accompained along various stretches by various friends - a pretty cunning plan. We were using a week of our holiday to join her for part of it. Some of the planning had been taken care of already - the route was choosen; the Pyrenean traverse from the Lonely Planet, Walking in Spain book, we joined it at day 7. The route kind of followed the GR11, but with some wiggles either side of it and one day on the HRP. Refugi's were booked, unless they were full. But would be camping some nights and hence carrying tent , sleeping bag and some food anyway.

It was a good job we had a rest day pencilled in for the next day, as during the night Cath was sick a few times. We made use of the time to pack, buy supplies and lounge by the pool. We also visited the Information office in Espot to try and find out what was the best thing to do with the car - we would have to leave it at one end of the journey - in the end the lure of lazing for a day made the decision for us - leave it in Espot and collect it at the end.

Espot is a small village located on the edge of the Parc Nacional Aiguestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici. In winter its a up and coming ski resort, in summer its the gateway to the national park. 90% of the parks visitors use it as an entry point. The Land-rover taxis which take you up to the Estany de Sant Maurici may have something to do with this.

Day 1: Espot to Refugi de Colomers

A five star day

Not the earliest of starts - the heat was already hot as we started out on from the village of Espot. The path rises pleasantly along the side of the valley, and soon you reach the junction with the path from the car park. The theme for today was 'a gentle rise' - with amazing views. We headed up through woodland, to the Lake. Its busy up here as this is where the Landrovers stop and disgorge their clients. Its a little annoying to think you could just get a lift up here (about 2 to 3 hours walking), but you do feel slightly superior having walked all the way up carrying a full pack.

The path continue its gentle rise, with fantastic views all around. The area is really pretty, there are touches of harshness, but there is also lots of flora and fauna. There are waterfalls, granite boulders, knarly pine trees, and towering peaks. There are also wildflowers all around. As the path crosses the Port de Ratera d'Espot (2534m), you begin a descent into the Circ de Colomers, and find yourslf by the Refugi de Colomers, which perches atop a dam.

We wern't booked to stay in this Refugi, but we were booked to eat. We camped on the opposite side of the dam on a small patch of flat grass.

The Lonley Planet Route Description (Day 7)
Guide Book Estimate: 6:30 to 7 hours, 18.5km
Our Time : 9hours, including breaks

Day 2: Refugi de Colomers to Refugi Ventosa i Calvell via Port de Colomers

We do WHAT with the cornflakes?

Breakfast time came and we headed up to the refugi to eat. On arrival our places were set with a plate and a big bowl of milky coffee. On the table was a basket of toast and a tub of cornflakes. There didn't seem to be any bowls or milk for the cornflakes. OK I thought, maybe we drink the coffee then use the bowls for the cornflakes. As we looked around the other dinners it became clear why there wasn't any milk out. The cornflakes go in the bowl of coffee! Non of us felt sure of this, so stuck with just drinking our cafe sin copos de maíz. We would have to be satisfied with toast for breakfast.

The parts of this day I remember most were meeting our first cow, Skinny dipping in an alpine steam, drying off in the sun, and scrambling across boulder fields (fun) as we got close to Refugi Ventosa. Oh, and being right about the location of the Refugi we were heading for (yes up this hill, not along and over the next hill).

I'm sure that like on most days there was lots of Mike and Cath heading off like hares and me tagging along behind at the back like the poor cousin. It can be a little dispiriting at times when you are always just out of ear shot, with snatches of laughter and joviality floating back to you as you struggle to keep up. Its good that my friend and boyfriend get on, but it seems they spent more time together than I did with either off them on this trip. It also seemed that my input and suggestions got disregarded when it came to the map reading stuff, only for the two of them to arrive at the same conclusion 10 minutes later - but hey ho!

The Refugi Ventosa was the nicest hut we stayed in - the food was lovely, the dining room was reassuringly chunky and solid, with good lights and lots of space, there was flushing toilets and it even had a shower (cold). It was also nice to be sleeping on a soft bed, not camping.

The Lonley Planet Route Description (Day 8)
Guide Book Estimate: 3:45 to 4:15 hours, 8km

Day 3: Refugi Ventosa i Cavell to Refugi de la Restanca + Side trip up Montardo d'Aran

We like the top of Mountains

The day started off pleasantly as we picked our way among the many tarns, eventually coming to a junction in the path, where our path rejoined the GR11. Its from here you embark on the optional side trip up Montardo d'Aran; well worth it. We stowed 2 of the rucksacks, and most of the gear out of the other, taking just one rucksack with water and lunchs in between us. The climb up was steep and hard, but strangely satisfying. It was great to be going up a mountain rather than in between them. It was also nice to be walking without full pack and hence at faster pace. Mike said he could feel the altitude, but I was feeling in better form than I had for days. This made us all wonder at what height you begin to feel the effects of altitude? (The Answer is about 2500m, apparently). It almost felt like being back home; being sat on top of a mountain eating a packed lunch. Not only was Ventosa the nicest Refugi we stayed in but they also get the award for the best packed lunches.

On top of the World. Montardo d'Aran

By the time we made it back to the rucksacks we were all in need of water and some shade. They was some confusion and a wee bit of ill tempered misunderstanding before we got any. We headed down to the Refugi Restanca. The plan was to camp somewhere near here, for 2 nights. The Refgi seemed like such a natural end to the day that no-one wanted to look around for camping spots; the guide book suggested another 45mins. The day didn't seem to have hit me so hard (there are advantages to being slow and steady), so I went for a scout. It turned out that the carrying on option was a no go as it was 45minutes down a steep tough going track. In the end and we found a nice little spot by some trees under the dam.

The Cheesy pasta, emergency oatcakes and instant custard I had brought from home were a hit, and spirits were revived. I had wondered if it was a bit colloquial bringing hill food from home, but I'm glad I did as we didn't go anywhere with good hill food supplies, and Oat cakes and instant custard do rock!

The Lonley Planet Route Description (Day 9)
Guide book Estimate: 2:30 to 3:15 hours, 6km
Side Trip: 4 hours
Out Time: 8:30 hours

Day 4: Rest Day (Arties side Trip)

oh no! es Domingo!

For a rest day this was surprisingly hard work. On reflection the decision to leave my poles behind might not have been such a good move. The initial 45 minutes down to the top carpark is uneven and tough going, and by the bottom of this section my knee was starting to swell. After that it was just long and hot (well over 30 degrees). There is a "taxi" that runs between the top and bottom car-parks, but it wasn't there when we arrived so we decided to set off walking and try and flag it down if it came past. It arrived in the bottom car-park at the same time we did. From here the option for the road down to Arties is walk or Hitch - We did try hitching, but it doesn't work so well in a 3 on a very quite road. On the plus side there wild strawberries and raspberries growing along the way, and loads of wildflowers. It was 3pm by the time we reached the very picturesque town of Arties. We decided to treat ourselves to a big meal.

The meal we ate at Bar Urtau was without doubt the best meal we had on the trip - great ingredients, well made, well presented, and plenty of it. We relaxed, drank beer and ate enough fill for 2 meals. While we were paying the bill we decided to ask our waiter where the supermarket was - it was then we discovered a fundamental flaw in our re-provisioning plan: It was Sunday, and hence the food shops were closed... After a while he suggested we try the garage on the outskirts of town.

The large meal, beer and 32 degree heat (at 6 in the evening!) made us sluggish - and even using the cash machine seemed a extraordinary effort, but we eventually summoned the energy to trek out along the road (cars=scary after 3 days in the wilderness) to the garage. The women in the garage were much amused as we explained to them our story in pigeon Spanish, and bought up there whole supply of cereal bars. Sneaking in to the campsite for a shower, completed our Arties errands, and we headed back to the the magic fish on the village green to refill our water bottles. The water it spurts is apparently special - although language difficulties prevented me finding out the exact nature of its special properties.

The long hike back up the hill, was shortened by about 3 hours by getting a taxi which took us all the way to the top carpark. It still felt hard on the final 45 minute stretch though.

Day 5: Refugi de la Restanca to Hospital da Vielha

Probably the least exciting day of the trip - After heading down first of all, the path headed up a gentle sloping valley to a pass, where we found a lake. We stopped for a while to lunch and sunbath. We then headed down into the next valley. The path zig-zaged to overcome the worst of the steepness, but my knee still started to ache something feirce. There is only really one thing to do when this happens put the pain to the back of your mind, take it carefully and just keep plodding onwards. Not exactly fun.

The Hospital de Vielha is located by a busy road and what appears to be a council work yard (big piles of gravel and lots of lorrys). It's also in the valley bottom unlike the other refugis we stayed in. It was OK, but it felt a bit weird retuning to "civilisation".

Maybe we were unfair on this day - but it seemed a bit of a link up day. Of course tiredness and a wonky knee, a view over a work yard and surly waitesses didn't endear it to me either.

The Lonley Planet Route Description (Day 10)
Guide Book Estimate: 4 to 4½ hours, 9.5km
Our Time: 6 hours including a 2 hour lunch.

Day 6: Hospital da Vielha to Meadows below Collado del Torro

The Hardest but Most Rewarding Day

As days go this was the biggy - the Coll de Mulleres is the highest pass in the Pyrenees at an impressive 2928m, and the route we covered on this day is part of the Pyrenean Haute Route (HRP). I have to admit I was a little apprehensive (but then I always am): I was worried that my knee might not hold up to such a long and hard day; I was worried that we might encounter snow and ice and be unequipped for it; and I was worried that i would be scarred and need to be looked after. Non of these things happened (honestly, in my head I'm such a doom monger).

Knowing it was going to be a long one we got up early and were treated to half an hour of walking in coolness, there was even frost on the grass. However, it didn't take long for the Spanish sun to reassert itself, and by the time we had walked through the woods past the Cascada de Mulleres it was hot again. The route description is pretty easy you just keep following the path up. It goes up, then up some more, then up some more. The terrain changes from boulder hopping to scree, to loose path and back again, but always it keeps going up. After going up for about 3 hours you come up the wall of the cirque and past the Refugio de Mulleres (2360m), or at least the faded red arrow that points to its location. Its about here you also encounter the lowest of 4 small tarns which form steps up the valley. These landmarks seemed to be about halfway up in terms of up. We seemed to stray from the guidebook description (which was to stay by the tarns then head up right after the last one), instead following a path that headed more steadily up on the right of the valley. The terrain now became more rocky, with an absences of greenery. The only real approximation I can think of is like the Skye Cullin, but with whiter rock and brighter sunshine. Its not a great approximation as the rock is granite, so you get lots of big slabs at varying angles and up close it feels quite different, however like Skye's gabbro it is super grippy!

Eventually the going up brought us to near the walls of the valley - the final push is a scramble over the top. It was fairly easy clamber with juggy hand holds, and good big foot holds. There seemed to be more than one possible route over. Disappointingly (and scarily) there was no sign of the promised Glaciar de Mulleres on the other side; a victim of a changing climate? After a few moments reflection on the crest we travered left to easier ground to make ready to make our descent. But hang on a minute, there's an easyily baggable 3000m peak just over there - it would indeed be a missed opportunity not to climb it. The scramble up the ridge and huge boulders to the top was great fun and in about 30 mins we had bagged our first 3000m+ summit, the Pic (Tuc) de Mulleres at 3010m.

Cath and Mike atop the Pic de Mulleres

The descent down started off quite taxingly but as the angle of the granite slabs lessened and they grew less broken the walking became easier and progress quickened. It still seemed to take ages to reach the tarn. By now we were pretty tired, and running low on water. As we reached the first promising camp spot we met an english couple, who passed on some top tips about accomodation in Benasque - and warned us not to head down to far as the lower meadows were full of cows. Only slightly further on we bumped into another British couple who said that the cows we in the next valley and that here was probably as good a place as any to stop. The problem with the cows (well, apart from being large scary animals) is that they have bells - which ring all night. We didn't take much persudaing to stop. It seemed strange that in this one tiny valley in Spain the 3 parties choosing to spend the night were all British. We didn't seem to have bumped in that many other British folk. Mike's theory on this was that because we were saying Hola or Buenos Dias, people assumed we were Spanish. We decided maybe we should take a leaf out of the French's book (they say Bonjour) and greet people in our native tongue, then they would know where we were from.

We eased the aches of the day with a dip in the cold, clear and very refreshing waters of the small tarn, and ate a meal of macaroni cheese followed by custard (a firm favourite) and went to bed for our last night in the hills. It felt quite final really, the end of a journey.

The Lonley Planet Route Description (Day 11)
Guide Book Estimate: 8½ to 10½ hours, 13km
Our Time: 12 hours (including side trip and meals)

Day 7: Into Benasque

A leisurely start to the day - lots of folk walking past us as we made our breakfast and struck camp, but as it was our last day and we knew the walking ahead wasn't too hard there wasn't much incentive to get on with it. A plesant saunter down the hill brought us to a massive heard of cows. Cath and I stuck together as we had to walk through them. We were a little alarmed as 2 of them got a little frisky (with each other), and a little more alarmed as another started pawing the ground, in an angry bull like fashion. Running wasn't really an option, all exits were blocked by more cow - we just had to keep walking steadily onward. For me this was the most scary moment of the trip - much much worse than the scrambling bits. The strange thing is I know these cows are well docile and I even think they are quite cute in multiples of less than 5.

We carried on, out of the cow pastures and dropped down into the Valleta de la Escaleta meadows. A very picturesque place, with lots of families and walkers paddling in the crystal clear rivers and streams and relaxing on their banks. We decided to join them for brunch. We hadn't been long resumed we came across the Cascada de Aiguallut, a large waterfall, and Forau de Aiguallut where the waters from the surrounding valleys disappear into a hole in the ground, and apparently reappear in the Val d'Aran, eventually making their way into the Atlantic somewhere near Bordeaux. The actual holes are quite small (to small to get in, not that you'd want to), but these are at the bottom of quite a big hole - a great excuse to stop and look for a while.

The path continues down the valley, until you reach a beer and refreshments hut. Unfortunatley we didn't get to sample the cold beverages, but this was because we had auspiciously arrived within minutes of one of only 3 buses that go direct to Benasque departing (about 13:00) - We hopped aboard the air conditioned bus and relaxed.

We seemed to have packed quite a lot into our short stay in Benasque - Firstly we had a meal, then we went and found some accommodation, then we went to the tourist info office (where the girl had a bit of paper for everything, but wasn't actually much help with real information), then we went shopping (a new non stinky t-shirt), then we went for a lie down and a shower in our room, then we went out for a meal.

As we sat down for the meal a storm (which the Spanish call la tormenta) started bouncing off the hills in the distance - putting on an impressive display of lightening. We ordered - which proved a little more complicated than usual as the menu was in the waitresses head - we got there with the help of some sign language and drawings for the more obscure ingredients. We should perhaps of taken heed when the diners around us started moving inside... But being stubborn we continued eating as rain threatened and la tormenta got closer - next minute umbrellas, tables and chairs were heading off down the street! We conceded defeat and moved inside.

We finished the night off with a stroll around the old town (the storm had finished) while keeping an eye out for a likely bar - our hunt unsuccessful (I thought the Spanish stayed up late) we retired to bed, ahead of our 6am start the following day. What could of been the first romantic night for quite a while, was a little de-ardoured by Cath deciding she needed to spend just one more night in our company (bless) - well either that, or she had an eye on our beds and breakfasts after we had left.

[The Lonley Planet Route Description (Day 12)]
Guide Book Estimate: Included mostly in previous day
Our Time: 4 hours

Epilogue: Getting back to Espot

A crazy crazy journey round Catalunya, 3 buses, 14 hours and a wee bit of luck later and wee were back in Espot and reunited with the car. It goes a little something like this:

06:00	Wake up, get up, leave Cath asleep in our beds
06:45	Depart Benasque on bus
08:45	Arrive Barbastro, get off bus, loiter
10:50	Depart Barbastro on a diffrent bus
12:10	Arrive Lleida, get off bus and loiter round the town - bearing in mind everythings shut from 12:30
16:45	Depart Lleida on another bus
19:47	Arrive La Guingeta. Attempt to commincate with Spanish lady, who had also got off bus, - that it would be good to share her taxi. She appears to agree. Spanish ladies Husband arrives... After taking pity on us - they decide to give us a lift to Espot (yey! thank you lovely Spanish people)
20:30	Arrive back at the Car in Espot

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My own little world - Another Prynean adventure, by ebygomm

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Good Things & Bad News

Since the arrival of the car (still got the green guilt), we have been making good use of our weekends. The first adventure was Ben Ledi, the following weekend we waded through bracken to go sport climbing at Dunira. Performance was mixed - I led the first 4+ fine - the second one was a different kettle of fish (more a 5 I think), and I backed off and top roped it. I'm a little bit miffed at myself about it. After these 2 route we could see the rain moving in, so beat (literally) at retreat. The Sunday of that weekend we headed West for a claggy walk up the Cobbler, as we came down the weather cleared out a bit, so we decided to head up over Beinn Narnain as well. The descent down the old path is pretty nasty on the old legs, and it took us a bit longer than we thought, but we were back on the road before the rain came in. The lesson that day taught us was that 1 packet of oaty flips probably isn't enough food for 2 people for a whole day - Luckily there is a chippy in Arrochar, or poor Mike could have wasted away....

Mike on the way down from Beinn Narnain

Last weekend we had to collect the bouldering mat from Mikes folks - so decided to head down The County with it for a spot of bouldering - the rain that we had managed to evade for the previous 2 weekends finally caught up with us, and then proceeded to follow us around. We got rained off at Dovestones and Bowden. On the Sunday we decided to head up to Glen Coe, to do Bidean Nam Bian (attempt 2). We drove through glorious sunshine to get there, but Glen Coe was under dark cloud - undeterred we set off. We got nearly to the top before the wind picked up and started driving hail at us. So we turned tail and headed down: that's Bidean 2, Us 0. There was much comedy as we stripped off in the car, only to find we couldn't get our dry clothes on, due to wet skin. Luckily the windows had steamed up enough to protect our modesty. The lessons from this day - have a plan b (like one of the sunny mountains) and take a towel!

This weekend was pretty easy going, one day of shopping (but for good stuff), and yesterday I did a long run as part of the 1/2 marathon training regime in the morning, and in the afternoon we went climbing at Traprain Law. It's the first time i have properly climbed on the Lammer Wall. I led the Vertical Staircase to start off with - didn't really like it much, big moves to big stances. Mike then led the severe next to this (Double Stretch) - which seemed quite nice to follow. I then led a lovely VD called Shuffle. This climb has made me feel much more positive about my climbing, lots of little positive holds and enough gear, but really nice climbing and felt totally fine. Much nicer than the first climb of the day and left me with a warm glow.

All this walking up hills and going climbing is part of getting ready for our holiday. We're off to France and the Pyrenees. I'm just a little bit excited by it all! The plan is to drive down through france at a nice lesuirly pace - meet cath in the Pyrenees then walk a bit over some big hills, then drive back home stopping off in Font or maybe Brittany (these boulders look so cool!) on the way home. Sun, rock, mountains, bread, cheese and simple living.

So all this sound good eh - But there has also been bad news. One of my close friends has had a tumour removed from her brain and the test results aren't good; an aggressive cancer. So all this good stuff seems a little like a veneer, a bit like living on borrowed time or thin ice, or something. I'm angry and disappointed that life has chosen to be unfair to someone who is so great. I know that thats not how it works, but then how does it work? And it feels weird to be going out doing all this stuff, then you look round and bad stuff happening to people you know - it feels like you're looking the other way. On the other hand there is all that stuff about living your life to its fullest because you don't know what happens next. Um....

... So yeah good things and bad news

Ben Ledi - Rain Evaders

There's an old saying that fortune favours the brave, and it seems very apt today with our rainless ascent (and descent) of Ben Ledi.

It's pretty much been raining forever, and today was no different. Lying in bed this morning you didn't even need to draw the curtains back to know what the weather was like - you could here the rain falling, hard and fast. We decided to postpone departure till about lunch time in the hope the downpour might stop. It did, but rather unconvincingly - like a half time break rather than full-time. The trip up to Callander was was easy going on the wipers for the most part; the last part was the bit where they got the use. The mandatory stop to buy pies saw us sat in the car park, deciding which urge was more powerful; hunger or the desire not to drown. In the end hunger won out (well I was with Mike!). As said pies where consumed (steak- good, macaroni- good, scotch - not as good) lightening lit up the sky, thunder echoed and the rain carried on. We told ourselves that we would just go to the car park at the bottom of the walk and see what it was like.

The rain seemed to have eased by the time we got parked, so we decided to brave it. My mums theory on wet weather is that the more you wear the more there is to get wet. She's a wise woman my mum - so we changed in to shorts and trainers with thin tops, under out coats. By the time we were a few hundred meters up the path the coats had come off - but it didn't matter beacuse the rain had stopped, and the sun was making an attempt to break through.

The Corbetts book gives a time of 2:30 to the summit - we made it in 1:30 -not bad going really. We decided to come back round by Stank Glen to check out the boulders. We ran along the rest of the ridge, then walked down the steep bit. The boulders are situated just above the fence and would be pretty easy to get to along good forestry tracks. Once the descent had levelled off a bit we ran again, along good trails back to the car.

In the last 50m Mike nearly trod on a mole - just as we were stopping to take pictures it started to spit. We think the mole may have been escaping from water logged ground, but couldn't see where it had come from, or anywhere for it to go (poor wee mole). The rain proper held off till we had stripped off our wet clothes (from the sweat and wet ground), put dry ones on and got back in the car. It rained all the way home and it's still raining now.

Ben Ledi 878m (760m ascent)
Time to Summit: 1:30 Total time 2:30 (aprox)
Weather - It didn't rain!

A Bad Week, Part Two

or why you shouldn't stop for lunch

Getting beat in the elections and hence being made redundant (See A Bad Week, Part One) made me glad I had already arranged a get away from it all weekend on the Isle of Rum with the girls.

Rum, the largest of the Small Isles, is located off the west coast of Scotland. It is reached by a ferry ride from Mallaig. Rum is famous for its midges, red deer, manx shearwaters, sea eagels and the Rum Cuillin. We planned to walk the Cuillin and hoped to see all but the midges.

The road trip was passed sleeping, bar a stop at the Real food cafe in Tyndrum for supper. Conversely the night was passed doing the first night in a tent thing; not really sleeping. With a 6.30 start we caught the 7.30 ferry across to the island. On arrival we pitched the tents and unloaded the stuff we wouldn't need until our return and set out. We intended to head out over the Rum Cuillin, spend the night at the Dibidil bothy and walk back to the campsite the next day.

Looking up to Hallival from near Kinloch

The Rum Cuillin is comprised of 5 tops; Hallival, Askival, Trallval, Ainshval and Sgurr nan Gillean. Two of these have Corbett status, Askival at 812m and Ainshval at 781m. When we left Kinloch it was t-shirt weather, by the time we approached the Bealach Bairc-mheall, about half way up Hallival the wind was knocking us off our feet and we were under cloud. It didn't take us long to decide that backing off was our preferred option. Narrow ridges, scrambling, overnight packs and high winds don't make a great combination. Possible, but not really enjoyable.

We drew up plan B - cut across country until we reached the path, then walk out around the coast to Dibidil, spend the night at the bothy, then if the weather improved dramatically tackle the ridge from the other end, if not walk back round the coast. We didn't hold out much hope with the weather as Sunday was forecast for worse than Saturday, but it was an amenable plan.

The walk out to Dibidil was pretty easy going. Riots of primroses along with Orchids and Milkworts provided ample distractions. The climber in me's interest was pricked by a reasonably sized crag and a boulder field near the Allt na h-Uamha and the sea stack, Stac nam Faoileann. As we rounded the corner into Glen Dibidil we spotted red deer, blending with the surrundings. Further along the bothy Dibidil came into view, nestling below the slopes of Sgurr nan Gillean as they towered up into the clouds.

When we arrived at the bothy we found a group inside, taking some shelter from the weather. They had stopped off to commemorate the recent death of a friend in an accident crossing the stream we had just some over. Being back in the area had obviously brought emotions back and they seemed a little shocked. As they set off back to the village the rain started.

As the evening wore on two more groups arrived to share the bothy for the night, the first arrivals didn't like the look of sharing with 3 girls, and took the other room. The later arrivals, Chris and Callum, weren't fussy, and opted to join us. My First night in a bothy was a pretty positive experience, warm enough and comfy nestled in part of the room that was partitioned with a parachute. A leisurely start the next day, along with an unpromising weather outlook, put paid to plans for a reverse ascent of the ridge. Getting on for 11am we set off back round the coastal path.

Taking it easy we stopped to chat to other walkers, and of course take photos of the nature. The weather got a bit wilder with showers of rain and hail moving through on a rather brisk wind. We carried on in the hopes of finding somewhere sheltered to stop for lunch. Eventually we found a hollow that afforded some shelter and grabbed a seat. Fiona had just nipped round the corner for a comfort break when Manda started fitting and what looked like pointing at her throat. My initial thought was choking. Things moved pretty fast; Manda turned blue round the lips, was frothing blood, and wasn't fully consious. I remember clearly thinking fuck i hope she doesn't die. Although still at a loss for what was wrong It became apparent it wasn't choking. We got her in to the recovery position as best we could on a 45degree slope.

After what seemed ages she started to stabilise, her breathing was ok, and the blood-loss wasn't significant (she had bitten through her tongue), but worryingly her speech was severely affected and she was very disorientated; a stroke maybe? Fiona got the job of calling 999, and did a good job of providing them with grid reference and details. Approximately 2 hours later the helicopter arrived. In the intervening time we had tried to keep our patient warm and calm. The helicopter had trouble recovering her in the high and gusty winds, but eventually managed to find a landing spot up the hill. We had just started to try and move towards the helicopter her when the local coast guard arrived on foot with a stretcher and assisted with the carrying.

After the helicopters departure, we were escorted back to the village by the volunteer coastguard, and kindly fed hot tea and biscuits in the castle. After an emotional roller-coaster it was strange to still be on the island. I felt like going home, but we couldn't leave until the following afternoons ferry. We kept busy by going for a few strolls, taking some pictures and taking a tour of the castle. In a way that sounds a little heartless, but it made the waiting pass and there wasn't really out else to do. We had been in contact with the outside world and received news of our friend; still in intensive care, but doing well. Immediate concerns for Mandas health lessened, but longer term concerns took over.

The weekends escape didn't really offer much ease or time for head clearing, and its taken a few weeks to feel back to normal after a mental few weeks.